Embarking on the journey of bleaching your hair at home can feel daunting. It’s a transformative process that requires careful planning and the right materials to achieve your desired results while minimizing damage. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need, from the essential chemicals to the vital protective gear, ensuring you’re well-prepared for a successful bleaching experience.
The Core Chemistry: Bleach and Developer
The heart of the hair bleaching process lies in the interaction between two primary ingredients: bleach and developer. Understanding their roles and selecting the appropriate strengths is crucial for achieving the desired lift without compromising the health of your hair.
Bleach Powder: The Lifting Agent
Bleach powder, typically a mix of persulfates, is the active ingredient responsible for lifting pigment from your hair. It comes in various formulations, often distinguished by their lifting power and speed. Choosing a bleach powder specifically designed for hair is essential, as industrial-grade bleach can cause severe damage. Look for options with additives like conditioning agents or protein boosters to help mitigate potential dryness.
Developer: The Catalyst
Developer, usually hydrogen peroxide in a cream or liquid form, activates the bleach powder. The volume of the developer indicates its strength and, consequently, its lifting power. The higher the volume, the faster and more dramatically it will lift pigment. Common volumes include 10, 20, 30, and 40.
- 10 Volume Developer: Offers the least amount of lift, ideal for toning or very subtle changes, and for use on already lightened hair. It’s gentle and minimizes damage.
- 20 Volume Developer: Provides a moderate amount of lift, suitable for lifting one or two levels or for covering gray hair. It’s a good option for those with sensitive scalps or fine hair.
- 30 Volume Developer: Offers significant lift, typically used for achieving noticeable color changes. It requires careful monitoring and is not recommended for damaged hair.
- 40 Volume Developer: Provides the most dramatic lift, but it is also the most damaging. It should only be used by experienced individuals on healthy hair, and ideally for short processing times.
Selecting the correct developer volume is critical. A lower volume is gentler but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired lightness, while a higher volume can cause significant damage if used incorrectly or for extended periods. Always err on the side of caution and start with a lower volume, especially if you’re a beginner.
Protective Gear: Safety First
Bleaching involves harsh chemicals that can irritate your skin and eyes. Prioritizing safety is paramount.
Gloves: Protecting Your Hands
Chemical-resistant gloves are non-negotiable. Avoid latex gloves, as they can react with the bleach mixture. Opt for nitrile or vinyl gloves that provide a barrier against chemical burns and irritation. Keep a few pairs on hand, as they may tear during the process.
Cape or Old Towel: Shielding Your Clothing
Bleach will stain clothing permanently. Protect your clothes with a waterproof cape or an old towel that you don’t mind ruining. Secure the cape or towel around your shoulders to ensure full coverage.
Applicator Brush: Precise Application
An applicator brush allows for controlled and even distribution of the bleach mixture. Choose a brush with soft, flexible bristles that won’t damage your hair. A pointed tip is helpful for precise application around the hairline and roots.
Mixing Bowl: A Safe Container
Use a non-metallic mixing bowl to prepare the bleach mixture. Metallic bowls can react with the chemicals, altering the results and potentially causing harm. Plastic or glass bowls are suitable alternatives.
Tools for Application and Monitoring
Beyond the core ingredients and protective gear, several tools can significantly enhance the bleaching process, ensuring even application and careful monitoring.
Hair Clips: Sectioning for Success
Sectioning your hair into manageable sections is vital for even application. Use plastic or metal hair clips to keep the sections separated and out of the way as you work. Sectioning ensures that every strand is adequately saturated with the bleach mixture.
Timer: Accurate Timing
Bleach processes at varying rates depending on hair type, color, and the strength of the developer. A timer is essential for accurately tracking the processing time and preventing over-processing, which can lead to severe damage.
Scale: Precise Measurements
Following the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing bleach and developer is crucial. Using a kitchen scale to measure the ingredients ensures the correct ratio, which directly impacts the effectiveness and safety of the bleaching process.
Mirror: Checking Your Progress
A handheld mirror allows you to check the progress of the bleaching process on the back of your head. This is essential for ensuring even lightening and identifying any areas that may need additional attention.
Post-Bleach Care: Repair and Hydrate
Bleaching inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Implementing a post-bleach care routine is essential for restoring moisture, repairing protein bonds, and maintaining the health of your hair.
Toning Shampoo: Neutralizing Unwanted Tones
Bleaching often reveals underlying warm tones, such as yellow or orange. A toning shampoo, typically purple or blue-based, helps neutralize these tones and achieve a cooler, more desirable shade. Use toning shampoo sparingly, as overuse can lead to an ashy or muddy appearance.
Deep Conditioner: Restoring Moisture
Bleaching strips the hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle. A deep conditioner is crucial for replenishing moisture and restoring elasticity. Look for deep conditioners that contain ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil.
Protein Treatment: Rebuilding Strength
Bleaching weakens the protein structure of the hair. A protein treatment helps rebuild these bonds, strengthening the hair and reducing breakage. Use protein treatments sparingly, as overuse can lead to stiffness and brittleness.
Leave-In Conditioner: Daily Hydration
A leave-in conditioner provides ongoing hydration and protection throughout the day. It helps detangle hair, reduce frizz, and protect against environmental damage. Choose a lightweight formula that won’t weigh your hair down.
Optional But Beneficial Supplies
These supplies aren’t absolutely necessary, but they can significantly improve your bleaching experience and the final results.
Coconut Oil: Pre-Bleach Protection
Applying coconut oil to your hair a few hours before bleaching can help protect it from damage. Coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft and creates a barrier that minimizes moisture loss during the bleaching process.
Bond Builders: Strengthening From Within
Bond builders, such as Olaplex or similar products, are designed to repair and strengthen the disulfide bonds that are broken during bleaching. Adding a bond builder to the bleach mixture can significantly reduce damage and improve the overall health of your hair.
Scalp Protector: Reducing Irritation
If you have a sensitive scalp, consider using a scalp protector before bleaching. These products create a barrier between the bleach and your scalp, reducing irritation and discomfort.
Color Remover: Correcting Existing Color
If you have existing hair color, using a color remover before bleaching can help lift the color more evenly and reduce the risk of unwanted tones. Color removers are less damaging than bleach and can be a good option for those with heavily colored hair.
A Step-by-Step Preparation Checklist
Before you even think about mixing bleach, go through this checklist to ensure you have everything you need and that your workspace is ready.
- Gather all materials: Bleach powder, developer, gloves, cape/towel, applicator brush, mixing bowl, hair clips, timer, scale, mirror, toning shampoo, deep conditioner, protein treatment, leave-in conditioner, coconut oil (optional), bond builder (optional), scalp protector (optional), color remover (optional).
- Prepare your workspace: Choose a well-ventilated area and cover surfaces with newspaper or plastic sheeting to protect them from bleach stains.
- Perform a strand test: Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. This is crucial to avoid unexpected results and potential damage.
- Read the instructions: Carefully read and understand the instructions on all of your products, paying close attention to mixing ratios and processing times.
- Protect your skin: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or a similar barrier cream around your hairline and ears to prevent staining.
- Don your protective gear: Put on your gloves and cape or towel.
Understanding the Strand Test
The strand test is a vital step that should never be skipped. It allows you to preview the outcome of the bleaching process on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. This helps you determine the appropriate developer volume, processing time, and assess the overall condition of your hair after bleaching.
To perform a strand test, select a small section of hair, ideally from underneath, near the nape of your neck. Apply the bleach mixture to this section of hair, following the same instructions you would use for your entire head. Monitor the strand closely, checking it every few minutes to assess the lifting progress. Once the strand reaches the desired level of lightness, rinse it thoroughly and assess its condition. If the strand is damaged or breaks easily, you may need to use a lower volume developer or shorten the processing time.
Post-Bleach Hair Care Routine: A Guide
After bleaching, your hair requires extra care and attention to recover from the chemical process. A well-planned post-bleach hair care routine is crucial for restoring moisture, rebuilding protein bonds, and maintaining the overall health of your hair.
Start by using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are typically sulfate-free and contain ingredients that help to replenish moisture and prevent color fading.
Incorporate a deep conditioning treatment into your routine at least once a week. Apply the deep conditioner to damp hair, cover with a shower cap, and leave it on for 20-30 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.
Use a protein treatment every 2-4 weeks to help rebuild the protein structure of your hair. Follow the instructions on the product label carefully, as overuse of protein treatments can lead to stiffness and brittleness.
Apply a leave-in conditioner to damp hair after washing to provide ongoing hydration and protection.
Minimize heat styling as much as possible, as heat can further damage bleached hair. When you do use heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray to your hair beforehand.
Consider using a silk or satin pillowcase to reduce friction and prevent breakage while you sleep.
Trim your hair regularly to remove split ends and prevent further damage from traveling up the hair shaft.
Troubleshooting Common Bleaching Issues
Even with careful planning and execution, some common issues can arise during or after the bleaching process. Understanding these issues and how to address them can help you achieve the best possible results.
Uneven Lifting: This can occur if the bleach is not applied evenly or if some sections of your hair are more resistant to lifting. To correct uneven lifting, you may need to reapply bleach to the darker areas, being careful not to over-process the already lightened areas.
Brassy Tones: This is a common issue after bleaching, as the underlying warm tones in your hair are revealed. Use a toning shampoo or toner to neutralize these tones and achieve a cooler, more desirable shade.
Damage and Breakage: Bleaching can cause damage and breakage, especially if the hair is over-processed or if a high volume developer is used. Implement a protein-rich hair care routine to help repair the damage.
Scalp Irritation: Some people may experience scalp irritation during or after bleaching. Apply a soothing scalp treatment to alleviate irritation.
By being prepared with the right materials, following proper techniques, and implementing a comprehensive post-bleach care routine, you can successfully bleach your hair at home and achieve beautiful, healthy results. Remember to always prioritize safety and listen to your hair.
What level developer should I use to bleach my hair at home?
Choosing the right developer volume is crucial to avoid damage and achieve your desired lift. Lower volumes like 10 or 20 are gentler, ideal for subtle lightening, toning, or depositing color. They open the hair cuticle less aggressively, minimizing breakage and dryness, making them suitable for finer hair or when aiming for only one or two levels of lift.
Higher volumes such as 30 or 40 lift more quickly and effectively, but come with a higher risk of damage. These are generally reserved for dark hair requiring significant lightening (multiple levels) or for use with specific bleaching techniques like balayage, where precise control is needed. Using a high volume unnecessarily can lead to over-processing, resulting in brittle, damaged hair that is prone to breakage. Always perform a strand test to determine the lowest developer volume that achieves your desired results.
What are the essential tools for bleaching hair at home?
Besides bleach powder and developer, you absolutely need a mixing bowl (non-metallic, to prevent chemical reactions), an applicator brush for precise application, and gloves to protect your skin. Sectioning clips are also crucial for separating the hair into manageable sections, ensuring even application and preventing missed spots. A timer is indispensable for monitoring the bleaching process and avoiding over-processing.
Furthermore, you’ll want a towel that you don’t mind staining and an old shirt to protect your clothing. Having a clarifying shampoo ready to wash out the bleach thoroughly is important, along with a deep conditioner to help restore moisture to the hair post-bleach. Properly preparing with these essential tools will contribute to a safer and more successful bleaching experience at home.
How do I perform a strand test before bleaching my hair?
A strand test is a vital step to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and developer mixture. Select a small, discreet section of hair, ideally at the nape of your neck or behind your ear, and apply the bleach mixture according to the product instructions. Use the same developer volume and bleach ratio you intend to use on your entire head.
Allow the bleach to process for the maximum recommended time, checking frequently for desired lift and any signs of damage. Once the strand has reached the desired level of lightness or the maximum processing time is reached, rinse thoroughly, shampoo, and condition. Evaluate the strand for color, texture, and damage. This test provides invaluable insight into how your hair will handle the bleaching process, preventing potential disasters and allowing you to adjust your approach accordingly.
What precautions should I take to minimize damage while bleaching my hair at home?
Prioritize healthy hair before bleaching. Avoid heat styling, harsh shampoos, and other chemical treatments in the weeks leading up to your bleaching session. Nourishing your hair with deep conditioning treatments and hair masks will strengthen it and make it more resilient. Always start with the lowest possible developer volume to achieve your desired level of lift, and carefully monitor the processing time.
Never leave the bleach on longer than recommended by the manufacturer, and constantly check the hair’s condition during processing. Apply a protein treatment after bleaching to help rebuild the hair structure, followed by a hydrating mask to restore moisture. Avoid heat styling immediately after bleaching, and use heat protectant when you do. Regular deep conditioning treatments and gentle hair care practices will help maintain the health and integrity of your hair.
How do I properly apply bleach to my hair for even results?
Divide your hair into four equal sections using sectioning clips to ensure a methodical and consistent application. Start applying the bleach mixture to the roots first, as the heat from your scalp will accelerate the bleaching process in this area. Work your way down the hair shaft, applying the mixture evenly from root to tip.
Once the roots are fully saturated, move on to the mid-lengths and ends. Ensure that all strands are thoroughly coated with the bleach mixture, paying close attention to areas where the hair is thicker or more resistant to lightening. Use a mirror to check the back of your head and ensure even coverage. This systematic approach ensures that all sections of your hair are exposed to the bleach for the appropriate amount of time, resulting in a more even and consistent lift.
How do I tone my hair after bleaching?
Toning is essential for neutralizing unwanted brassy or yellow tones after bleaching and achieving your desired shade. Choose a toner based on the color you want to achieve and the underlying tones in your hair. For example, a purple toner cancels out yellow tones, while a blue toner neutralizes orange. Mix the toner with a low-volume developer (usually 10 or 20) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Apply the toner evenly to damp, towel-dried hair, focusing on the areas where the brassiness is most prominent. Leave the toner on for the recommended processing time, checking frequently to avoid over-toning. Once the desired tone is achieved, rinse thoroughly, shampoo with a color-safe shampoo, and condition. Toning helps refine the bleached hair’s color, resulting in a more polished and professional finish.
What aftercare is crucial after bleaching hair at home?
Focus on hydration and protein replenishment after bleaching your hair at home to minimize damage and promote healthy growth. Use deep conditioning treatments and hair masks regularly to restore moisture lost during the bleaching process. Incorporate protein treatments to rebuild the hair’s structure and strengthen weakened strands.
Avoid heat styling as much as possible and always use a heat protectant when you do. Opt for gentle, sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners to prevent further stripping of moisture. Regularly trimming split ends will also help prevent breakage and maintain the overall health of your hair. Consider incorporating a leave-in conditioner or hair oil into your routine to provide ongoing hydration and protection.