So, you’re rocking orange hair, but dreaming of a cool, sophisticated ash blonde? Many have been in your shoes, and the journey isn’t always a straightforward one. The short answer is: it’s complicated. Whether you can successfully achieve ash blonde depends heavily on several factors. This article will delve deep into the intricacies of hair color correction, explaining why orange hair happens, the challenges involved in neutralizing it, and the steps you can take to (potentially) achieve your ash blonde goals.
Understanding the Orange Hue: Why is it There?
Before even thinking about ash blonde, you need to understand why your hair is currently orange. Orange tones are a common byproduct of the hair lightening process, particularly when lifting darker hair colors. Hair contains natural pigments, primarily melanin. When you bleach your hair, you’re essentially trying to remove these pigments.
Darker hair has more melanin, which is removed in stages. Black hair often goes through red, then orange, then yellow stages before reaching a pale blonde. The lightening process might stall at the orange stage if:
- Your hair wasn’t lightened enough to reach a pale yellow base.
- You used a low-volume developer that wasn’t strong enough to lift through all the underlying pigments.
- You didn’t leave the bleach on for the recommended time.
- Your hair is resistant to lightening.
- Previous color treatments have left behind residual pigment.
Understanding why your hair is orange is crucial for deciding on the best course of action. Different types of orange (bright orange, coppery orange, yellow-orange) will require different approaches to neutralization.
The Science of Color Correction: Neutralizing Orange
Color correction is essentially playing with the color wheel. Opposite colors on the wheel neutralize each other. In this case, the opposite of orange is blue. Therefore, to neutralize orange tones, you need to introduce blue pigments. This is typically achieved through the use of toners or dyes with blue undertones.
However, it’s not as simple as slapping on any blue-toned product. The intensity of the orange and the strength of the blue pigment must be carefully balanced. Using too much blue can result in a muddy, greenish hue. Under-toning will leave you with lingering orange tones.
The level of your hair (its lightness or darkness on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being black and 10 being lightest blonde) is also crucial. Ash blonde shades are typically level 8 or higher. If your orange hair is only at a level 6 or 7, you’ll likely need to lighten it further before applying toner.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition: Is it Ready for More?
Before even considering color correction, honestly assess the health of your hair. Bleaching is inherently damaging, and adding more chemicals to already compromised hair can lead to breakage, dryness, and even hair loss.
Ask yourself these questions:
- Is my hair dry and brittle?
- Does it break easily when stretched?
- Is it excessively porous (does it absorb products quickly)?
- Have I bleached it multiple times recently?
- Am I experiencing significant hair fall?
If you answered yes to most of these questions, your hair is likely too damaged for further processing. Focus on repairing and strengthening your hair with deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and gentle hair care practices before attempting to lighten or tone it. Continuing to process damaged hair will only exacerbate the problem.
Steps to Achieving Ash Blonde Over Orange Hair: A Detailed Guide
If your hair is relatively healthy and you’re determined to go ash blonde, here’s a breakdown of the process:
Step 1: Strand Test
This is non-negotiable. Before applying any product to your entire head, perform a strand test. This involves applying the toner or dye to a small, hidden section of your hair to see how it reacts. This allows you to assess the color result, identify any potential problems (like uneven toning or damage), and adjust the application time or formula accordingly.
Step 2: Lightening (If Necessary)
If your hair is not light enough, you will need to lighten it further. This is the riskiest step, so proceed with extreme caution. Use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) and monitor your hair closely. It’s often better to do multiple, gentle lightening sessions than one aggressive one. Protect your hair with bond builders like Olaplex or Redken pH-Bonder during the lightening process. Remember to prioritize hair health.
Step 3: Choosing the Right Toner
Selecting the correct toner is critical. Look for toners specifically designed to neutralize orange tones. These typically have blue or blue-violet undertones. The specific toner you choose will depend on the intensity of the orange in your hair.
- For very bright orange hair, you might need a toner with a stronger blue base.
- For more subtle, coppery orange tones, a blue-violet toner might be sufficient.
Read product reviews and consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure. Incorrect toner selection is one of the most common reasons for failed color corrections.
Step 4: Toning Your Hair
Follow the instructions on your toner carefully. Apply the toner evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas with the most orange tones. Monitor your hair closely during the processing time, checking the color every few minutes. Don’t leave the toner on for longer than recommended, as this can result in over-toning.
Step 5: Deep Conditioning
Toning, like lightening, can be drying to the hair. After rinsing out the toner, apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and restore your hair’s health. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time, or even longer for extra hydration.
Step 6: Maintaining Your Ash Blonde
Ash blonde is a high-maintenance color. To keep your hair looking its best, use color-safe shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for blonde hair. These products often contain violet pigments to help neutralize any brassy tones that may develop over time. Avoid using harsh shampoos or styling products that can strip your hair of color. Consider using a purple shampoo or mask once a week to maintain the ash blonde tone.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to achieve ash blonde over orange hair at home, it’s often best to seek professional help, especially if:
- Your hair is severely damaged.
- You’ve already tried multiple times without success.
- You’re unsure about which products to use.
- You’re dealing with uneven color.
A professional stylist has the experience and expertise to assess your hair’s condition, formulate a customized plan, and apply the products correctly. They can also help you avoid costly mistakes and prevent further damage to your hair. Investing in a professional color correction can save you time, money, and potentially a lot of frustration in the long run.
Preventing Orange Hair in the First Place
Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to help prevent your hair from turning orange when lightening it:
- Start with healthy hair.
- Use a high-quality bleach and developer.
- Choose the right developer volume for your hair type and desired level of lift.
- Don’t try to lift too many levels at once.
- Protect your hair with bond builders.
- Consider doing a bleach bath instead of a full bleach.
- Always perform a strand test.
- Monitor your hair closely during the lightening process.
- Don’t leave the bleach on for longer than necessary.
- Use a toner to neutralize any unwanted tones.
Understanding Toners
Toners are semi-permanent hair colors that help neutralize unwanted undertones in bleached or lightened hair. They deposit pigment to counteract brassiness, yellowness, or in your case, orange. Toners don’t lift the hair’s base color. Instead, they refine the tone and create a more balanced and aesthetically pleasing result.
There are several types of toners available, including:
- Liquid toners: These are mixed with a developer and applied to the hair like a regular dye.
- Cream toners: These are thicker and easier to apply than liquid toners.
- Purple shampoos and conditioners: These contain violet pigments that help neutralize yellow tones and maintain blonde hair. They are a good option for maintaining your ash blonde color between toning sessions.
- Color depositing masks: These masks deposit color while conditioning the hair. They are a gentle way to add tone and refresh your color.
Choosing the right toner depends on the specific undertones you want to neutralize and the overall look you’re trying to achieve.
Dealing with Uneven Orange Tones
Sometimes, even with careful application, you might end up with uneven orange tones in your hair. This can happen if some sections of your hair are more porous than others or if you didn’t apply the bleach or toner evenly.
If you’re dealing with uneven orange tones, here are a few options:
- Spot treat the areas that are more orange with toner. Apply the toner only to the affected areas and monitor them closely.
- Do a second toning session. Apply the toner to your entire head again, but be careful not to over-tone the areas that are already well-toned.
- See a professional stylist. They can assess the situation and develop a customized plan to correct the uneven tones.
The Importance of Patience and Realistic Expectations
Achieving ash blonde over orange hair is a process that requires patience and realistic expectations. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to achieve your desired result in just one session. It may take multiple lightening and toning sessions to get your hair to the right level and tone.
It’s also important to be realistic about the health of your hair. If your hair is severely damaged, it may not be possible to achieve ash blonde without causing further damage. In that case, it’s best to focus on repairing and strengthening your hair before attempting any further color treatments.
Remember, healthy hair is always more beautiful than any hair color. Don’t sacrifice the health of your hair in pursuit of a particular shade.
Long-Term Hair Care for Ash Blonde Hair
Once you’ve achieved your ash blonde dream, maintaining it requires ongoing care. Here are some tips for keeping your ash blonde hair healthy and vibrant:
- Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners.
- Avoid washing your hair too frequently.
- Use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools.
- Get regular trims to prevent split ends.
- Deep condition your hair regularly.
- Use a purple shampoo or mask once a week to maintain the ash blonde tone.
- Protect your hair from the sun with a hat or scarf.
Ash blonde hair can be stunning, but it requires dedication and proper care. By following these tips, you can keep your hair looking its best for years to come. The journey from orange to ash blonde might be challenging, but with the right knowledge, products, and approach, it’s definitely possible! Just remember to prioritize hair health above all else.
FAQ 1: Will ash blonde dye directly cover orange hair?
Generally, no. Ash blonde is a cool-toned color designed to neutralize yellow and brassy tones. Applying it directly over orange hair will likely result in a muddy, uneven color, potentially even intensifying the orange in some areas. The ash tones won’t be strong enough to counteract the underlying warmth, leading to a disappointing and unpredictable outcome.
Instead of direct application, you need to address the underlying orange first. This usually involves a process of color correction, which might include toning, using a color remover, or even bleaching depending on how vibrant the orange is and the desired level of ash blonde. Trying to skip these crucial steps will almost always lead to undesirable results and potential damage to your hair.
FAQ 2: What pre-treatments are necessary before applying ash blonde to orange hair?
The most important pre-treatment is to neutralize or remove the orange tones. A blue or purple-based toner can help counteract orange, but it’s most effective on lighter shades of orange. For more intense orange, a color remover is a gentler option than bleach to lift the color without as much damage. Assess the intensity of the orange to determine the best course of action.
After color correction, it’s crucial to focus on hair health. A deep conditioning treatment or protein mask will help to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft, preparing it for the potentially drying effects of the ash blonde dye. Healthy hair is more receptive to color and will hold the ash blonde tone better, leading to a longer-lasting and more vibrant result.
FAQ 3: What type of toner should I use to neutralize orange tones?
For neutralizing orange, a blue-based toner is generally recommended. The blue pigments work to counteract the orange tones, creating a more neutral base for your ash blonde dye. Look for toners specifically formulated for correcting orange or brassy tones. Check the product instructions carefully and choose a volume of developer appropriate for your hair type and the desired level of lift or toning.
Consider the intensity of the orange when choosing a toner. For lighter, more yellow-orange tones, a weaker toner with a lower volume developer may suffice. However, for deeper, more vibrant orange, you might need a stronger toner or even multiple applications. Always perform a strand test to assess the toner’s effectiveness and prevent over-toning, which can result in a muddy or greyish hue.
FAQ 4: How can I minimize damage when bleaching orange hair?
Prioritize hair health before, during, and after the bleaching process. Begin by applying a deep conditioning treatment for several weeks leading up to the bleach application. This will help strengthen the hair and minimize potential damage. Use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to lift the color gradually, reducing stress on the hair shaft.
Consider using a bond-building treatment like Olaplex or similar products during the bleaching process to protect and repair the hair bonds. Monitor the hair closely during bleaching, and rinse as soon as the desired level of lightness is achieved, even if it’s not fully blonde. Following bleaching, use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and continue with regular deep conditioning treatments to replenish lost moisture and prevent breakage.
FAQ 5: What volume developer should I use with my ash blonde dye?
The appropriate developer volume depends on your starting hair color (after any pre-treatments) and your desired level of lift. If your hair is already a very light blonde or pale yellow after toning or bleaching, a 10-volume developer is typically sufficient for depositing the ash blonde color without significant lift. This is the gentlest option and minimizes damage.
If your hair is still slightly yellow or you need to lift a shade or two to achieve the desired ash blonde tone, a 20-volume developer may be necessary. However, avoid using higher volumes (30 or 40) unless absolutely necessary and only with extreme caution, as they can cause significant damage. Always perform a strand test to determine the appropriate developer volume and processing time for your hair.
FAQ 6: How do I maintain ash blonde color and prevent it from turning brassy?
Use a purple shampoo and conditioner regularly to neutralize any developing brassy or yellow tones. These products contain purple pigments that counteract the warmth, helping to maintain the cool, ash blonde shade. Be mindful of overusing purple shampoo, as it can sometimes lead to a dull or overly cool tone if used too frequently. Alternate with a color-safe shampoo.
Protect your hair from environmental factors that can contribute to brassiness, such as sun exposure and hard water. Use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors and consider installing a water filter on your showerhead to reduce mineral buildup. Regular gloss treatments can also help to refresh the color and add shine, keeping your ash blonde looking vibrant and healthy.
FAQ 7: When should I seek professional help for going ash blonde?
If your hair is already damaged, heavily processed, or if you’re attempting a significant color change (e.g., going from dark brown to ash blonde), it’s highly recommended to consult a professional hairstylist. They have the expertise to assess your hair’s condition, formulate a custom color plan, and minimize the risk of damage. A professional can also correct any existing color issues before applying the ash blonde.
Furthermore, if you’re unsure about any of the steps involved, from choosing the right toner to selecting the appropriate developer volume, seeking professional guidance is always a wise decision. Trying to DIY a complex color correction and dye job can lead to uneven results, damage, and ultimately, more costly repairs down the line. Investing in a professional consultation can save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.