Achieving your dream hair color, especially when starting with a darker base, involves more than just picking out your favorite shade. Understanding the role of hair developer, specifically the difference between 10 and 20 volume, is crucial for a successful and healthy coloring process. This article dives deep into the intricacies of these two developers, helping you determine which one is best suited for your dark hair and desired outcome.
Understanding Hair Developer
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is a chemical agent that works in conjunction with hair dye to open the hair cuticle and allow the color molecules to penetrate the hair shaft. It also oxidizes the natural melanin in your hair, which is what lightens it. The volume of the developer indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide it contains; a higher volume means a stronger concentration and greater lifting power.
The Role of Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the active ingredient in hair developers. It’s a powerful oxidizing agent that can lighten hair and allow dye molecules to bond effectively. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide directly impacts the degree of lift achieved and the potential damage to the hair. Higher volumes contain a greater percentage of hydrogen peroxide, leading to more significant lightening.
Decoding Developer Volumes: 10 vs. 20
The volume number indicates the amount of oxygen released by the developer. A 10 volume developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide, while a 20 volume developer contains 6%. This difference in concentration significantly impacts their performance on dark hair.
10 Volume Developer: Subtle Changes and Toning
A 10 volume developer is the gentler option of the two. It’s primarily used for:
- Depositing color: 10 volume is ideal for adding color without significantly lifting the natural hair color. This makes it a good choice for going darker, achieving vibrant reds or blues on pre-lightened hair, or refreshing existing color.
- Toning: After bleaching, a 10 volume developer helps deposit toner evenly and gently, neutralizing unwanted brassy tones and achieving the desired shade.
- Minimal lift: 10 volume developer provides very minimal lift (about one level or less). It won’t drastically change dark hair color.
- Delicate hair: It’s suitable for individuals with fine or damaged hair, as it minimizes the risk of further damage.
20 Volume Developer: More Lift and Gray Coverage
A 20 volume developer is more potent and is used for:
- Lightening: 20 volume offers a moderate amount of lift (one to two levels), making it suitable for lightening dark hair slightly or achieving a subtle highlighting effect.
- Gray coverage: This volume is the standard choice for covering gray hair, as it effectively opens the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate and deposit color thoroughly.
- Balayage and ombre: For creating balayage or ombre effects, a 20 volume developer can provide the necessary lift for a seamless transition between the darker roots and lighter ends.
- More resistant hair: If your hair is naturally resistant to color, a 20 volume developer may be necessary to achieve the desired result.
Choosing the Right Developer for Dark Hair: Factors to Consider
Selecting the appropriate developer volume depends on various factors, including your natural hair color, desired result, hair health, and the type of dye you’re using.
Desired Color Result
The desired color outcome is paramount. If you’re aiming for a subtle change, like adding a dark tint or deepening your existing color, a 10 volume developer will suffice. However, if you want to lighten your hair by one or two shades, cover grays, or achieve a more noticeable color change, a 20 volume developer is more appropriate.
Natural Hair Color and Undertones
Dark hair often has warm undertones (red, orange, or yellow) that can become more prominent when lightening. Understanding your hair’s natural undertones is crucial for selecting the right developer and toner. If you’re aiming for a cool-toned result (ashy blonde or cool brown), you might need to use a stronger developer or toner to counteract the warm undertones. 20 volume might be needed to lift enough to reveal and then neutralize those undertones.
Hair Health and Condition
Assessing the health and condition of your hair is crucial before coloring. If your hair is already damaged, dry, or brittle, using a higher volume developer like 20 can cause further damage. In such cases, a 10 volume developer is a safer option to minimize potential harm. You may need to consider pre-treating your hair with strengthening products before coloring.
Type of Hair Dye
The type of hair dye you’re using also influences the developer volume. Permanent hair dyes typically require a 20 volume developer for optimal results, while demi-permanent dyes can be used with a 10 volume developer. Always refer to the dye manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended developer volume.
Potential Risks and Precautions
Using the wrong developer volume can lead to undesirable outcomes, including hair damage, uneven color, and scalp irritation. It’s important to take necessary precautions to minimize risks.
Hair Damage
Using a developer that is too strong for your hair type or condition can cause significant damage, including dryness, breakage, and split ends. Over-processing the hair can weaken the hair structure, making it more prone to damage. Always perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the developer before applying it to your entire head.
Scalp Irritation
Developers can irritate the scalp, especially if you have sensitive skin. Applying petroleum jelly to the hairline can help protect the skin from irritation. If you experience a burning sensation or severe itching during the coloring process, rinse the developer immediately.
Uneven Color
Using the wrong developer volume can result in uneven color distribution. If the developer is not strong enough, the dye may not penetrate the hair shaft evenly, leading to patchy or inconsistent color. Conversely, using a developer that is too strong can cause the color to fade quickly or result in unwanted brassy tones.
Tips for a Successful Hair Coloring Experience
Follow these tips to ensure a successful and damage-free hair coloring experience:
- Perform a strand test: Before applying the developer and dye to your entire head, perform a strand test on a small, inconspicuous section of hair. This will help you assess the color result and identify any potential issues.
- Follow manufacturer’s instructions: Always carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the hair dye and developer.
- Use the correct mixing ratio: Use the correct mixing ratio of dye to developer as specified in the instructions.
- Apply the developer evenly: Apply the developer evenly to ensure consistent color distribution.
- Monitor the development time: Monitor the development time closely and rinse the dye as soon as the desired color is achieved.
- Use a deep conditioner: After coloring, use a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair.
- Protect your hair from heat: Avoid using heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons, immediately after coloring, as they can further damage the hair.
When to Consult a Professional
If you’re unsure about which developer volume to use or are attempting a significant color change, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. A stylist can assess your hair type, condition, and desired result and recommend the appropriate developer volume and coloring technique. They can also help you avoid potential damage and achieve a salon-worthy result.
Choosing Between 10 and 20 Volume Developer
Ultimately, the choice between a 10 and 20 volume developer for darker hair depends on your specific needs and goals. Consider the following:
- For subtle color changes, darkening, toning, or refreshing existing color: 10 volume developer is generally the better choice.
- For slight lightening, covering gray hair, or achieving balayage or ombre effects: 20 volume developer may be necessary.
- Always prioritize the health of your hair and consult a professional if you’re unsure.
- Remember to perform a strand test before committing to a full head application.
By carefully considering these factors, you can make an informed decision about which developer volume is best suited for your dark hair and achieve the beautiful, healthy color you desire. Always prioritize safety and consult a professional when in doubt. The health of your hair is just as important as achieving the perfect color!
What’s the main difference between 10 and 20 volume developer?
The primary difference lies in the level of hydrogen peroxide each contains. A 10 volume developer contains approximately 3% hydrogen peroxide, while a 20 volume developer contains around 6%. This difference in peroxide concentration directly affects the amount of lift (lightening) it provides, as well as the speed at which the lift occurs.
Essentially, 20 volume developer offers twice the lifting power of 10 volume developer. This means 20 volume will lighten the hair more quickly and effectively, but also has the potential to cause more damage. The lower concentration in 10 volume makes it gentler, resulting in a slower, more subtle lift.
When is it best to use 10 volume developer on dark hair?
10 volume developer is ideal when you’re aiming for subtle changes or minimal lift on dark hair. This is often the best choice for depositing color only, matching your roots to your existing color when dealing with minimal grey, or using a toner after bleaching to adjust the tone without significantly lightening the hair. It’s also great when you want to add shine and refresh the existing color.
Because it’s less damaging, 10 volume is a good option for those with already damaged or compromised dark hair. If you’re just looking to darken your hair, blend a few greys without a stark difference, or add a glaze for vibrancy, 10 volume will do the job without unnecessary processing. Consider your hair’s health and desired outcome when choosing between developers.
When is it best to use 20 volume developer on dark hair?
20 volume developer is best suited for situations where you need to lift the hair a shade or two. This is the more appropriate choice when covering grey hair effectively, especially stubborn greys, as it opens the hair cuticle more efficiently to allow the color to penetrate. It is also commonly used for lightening the hair to prepare it for a vibrant color application.
If you are aiming for a noticeable change in your dark hair color, or need to cover grey effectively, 20 volume is the better choice. However, keep in mind that it is more potent and potentially more damaging than 10 volume. Always assess your hair’s condition and perform a strand test before applying a 20 volume developer to ensure it can handle the processing.
Can I use 20 volume developer to bleach my dark hair?
While 20 volume developer can be used in conjunction with bleach on dark hair, it might require multiple sessions to achieve significant lightening. If your aim is to go several shades lighter, you might need a higher volume developer or multiple applications of 20 volume.
For dark hair, achieving a very light blonde generally requires a higher volume developer used by a professional, or multiple carefully planned sessions. 20 volume developer with bleach can still lift the hair, but the process will take longer and you might need to be patient and prioritize your hair’s health by deep conditioning and spacing out bleach applications.
Will using 20 volume developer on dark hair always result in damage?
Not necessarily. While 20 volume developer has a higher potential for damage than 10 volume, proper usage and care can minimize negative effects. Damage depends on factors like your hair’s current condition, the strength of the color or bleach being used, and the duration of processing time.
To minimize damage, always perform a strand test before applying to the entire head. Follow the product instructions carefully and don’t exceed the recommended processing time. After coloring or bleaching, use deep conditioning treatments and protein masks to help repair and strengthen the hair. Regularly moisturizing will also help improve overall health.
How does porosity affect my choice of developer volume?
Hair porosity, which refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, plays a significant role in choosing the appropriate developer volume. Highly porous hair absorbs color quickly but also releases it easily, making it more prone to damage from higher volume developers. Low porosity hair, on the other hand, resists color absorption and may require a slightly stronger developer for optimal results.
For highly porous hair, using a 10 volume developer might be sufficient to deposit color effectively without causing excessive damage. Low porosity hair might require a 20 volume developer to lift the cuticle and allow the color to penetrate properly. A strand test is always recommended to assess how your hair responds to the chosen developer volume and adjust accordingly.
Can I mix 10 and 20 volume developer to create a 15 volume?
While you can mathematically mix 10 and 20 volume developers, it’s generally not recommended. Developer formulations are specifically designed with particular pH levels and stabilizers, and mixing them can alter these properties, potentially affecting the final color result and even damaging your hair.
It’s better to stick to using a single, properly formulated developer at the correct volume. Using pre-formulated developers helps ensure consistent and predictable results, minimizing the risk of unexpected color outcomes or hair damage. Consider a dedicated 10 or 20 volume developer, or consult a professional colorist if you need a specific volume not readily available.