Dyeing bleached hair back to black might seem straightforward, but it’s a process fraught with potential pitfalls if not approached correctly. Bleached hair is significantly more porous and damaged than virgin hair, which means it absorbs color differently and requires a more strategic approach to achieve a rich, lasting black hue. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from assessing your hair’s condition to aftercare, ensuring you achieve the stunning, deep black you desire without further compromising your hair’s health.
Understanding Bleached Hair and Color Absorption
Bleaching hair is essentially stripping it of its natural pigment. This process opens the hair cuticle, leaving it highly porous and susceptible to damage. The lighter the shade you bleach to, the more pigment is removed, and the more damaged the hair becomes. When you apply color to bleached hair, it tends to grab onto the color molecules quickly, often resulting in uneven color distribution or the dreaded green or blue undertones.
The key challenge is that bleached hair lacks the underlying warm tones that naturally occur in darker shades. Black hair, while appearing simply black, is actually a complex blend of blue, red, and yellow pigments. When you dye bleached hair directly with black dye, the lack of these underlying warm tones can cause the cooler pigments in the black dye to dominate, leading to a greenish or bluish tint, especially as the dye fades.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition and Choosing the Right Products
Before you even think about picking up a box of black hair dye, it’s crucial to assess the condition of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, and prone to breakage? Or is it relatively healthy despite being bleached? The answer will significantly influence the products you choose and the techniques you employ.
Evaluating Hair Porosity:
Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Highly porous hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it just as fast. To determine your hair’s porosity, take a strand of clean, dry hair and place it in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, it’s highly porous. If it floats for a while before sinking, it has low porosity. If it sinks slowly, it’s normal porosity. Knowing your hair’s porosity will help you choose products that are formulated to either replenish moisture in highly porous hair or help low porosity hair absorb color more effectively.
Selecting the Right Black Hair Dye:
Not all black hair dyes are created equal. Opt for a high-quality dye specifically designed for previously bleached or color-treated hair. Look for dyes that are ammonia-free or have a low ammonia content, as ammonia can further damage already weakened hair. Semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes are generally gentler than permanent dyes, as they don’t penetrate the hair shaft as deeply. However, they may not last as long and may fade more quickly.
Choosing the Right Developer:
If you’re using a demi-permanent or permanent dye, you’ll need a developer. The volume of the developer determines how much the dye will lift the hair cuticle. For dyeing bleached hair back to black, a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) is generally recommended. A higher volume developer can cause further damage and isn’t necessary when you’re not trying to lighten the hair.
Don’t Forget the Essentials:
- A color bowl and applicator brush for even application.
- Gloves to protect your hands from staining.
- An old towel to protect your clothing.
- Hair clips to section your hair.
- A deep conditioner to use after dyeing.
The Importance of Filling the Hair Before Dyeing
This is perhaps the most crucial step in successfully dyeing bleached hair back to black. “Filling” the hair means replenishing the missing underlying pigments (red, orange, and yellow) that were stripped away during the bleaching process. This creates a warm base for the black dye to adhere to, preventing those unwanted green or blue undertones.
Choosing a Filler Color:
The ideal filler color will depend on how light your hair is. If your hair is a very light blonde (level 9 or 10), you’ll need a warmer filler color, such as a red-orange or copper. If your hair is a darker blonde (level 7 or 8), you can use a more neutral red or orange.
Applying the Filler:
Apply the filler color evenly to your hair, following the instructions on the product packaging. Allow it to process for the recommended time, and then rinse thoroughly. Do not shampoo your hair after rinsing the filler.
The Dyeing Process: Step-by-Step Instructions
Now that your hair is filled and ready, it’s time to apply the black dye.
- Prepare Your Workspace: Protect your clothing and surfaces with an old towel. Put on your gloves.
- Mix the Dye: Follow the instructions on the dye packaging to mix the dye and developer (if using).
- Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into four sections using hair clips. This will make it easier to ensure even coverage.
- Apply the Dye: Starting at the roots, apply the dye evenly to each section of your hair, working your way down to the ends. Make sure to saturate all of your hair with the dye.
- Process the Dye: Once you’ve applied the dye to all of your hair, cover it with a shower cap or plastic wrap. This will help to trap heat and ensure even color development. Process the dye for the recommended time on the packaging.
- Rinse and Condition: After the processing time is up, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Apply a deep conditioner to your hair and leave it on for the recommended time. This will help to replenish moisture and prevent dryness.
- Style as Usual: Once you’ve rinsed out the conditioner, you can style your hair as usual.
Maintaining Your Black Hair Color
Maintaining your newly dyed black hair requires a consistent aftercare routine. Bleached hair, even after being dyed black, remains more vulnerable to damage and fading.
Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner:
Invest in a high-quality shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle on the hair and won’t strip away the color as quickly as regular shampoos.
Wash Your Hair Less Often:
Washing your hair too frequently can cause the color to fade faster. Try to limit washing to 2-3 times per week.
Use Cool Water to Wash Your Hair:
Hot water opens the hair cuticle, allowing color to escape. Washing your hair with cool water helps to seal the cuticle and preserve the color.
Avoid Heat Styling:
Heat styling tools like flat irons and curling irons can damage your hair and cause the color to fade. If you must use heat styling tools, use a heat protectant spray beforehand.
Deep Condition Regularly:
Bleached hair needs extra moisture. Deep condition your hair at least once a week to keep it healthy and hydrated.
Touch Up Your Roots Regularly:
As your hair grows, you’ll need to touch up your roots to maintain an even color. How often you need to do this will depend on how quickly your hair grows.
Consider a Gloss Treatment:
A clear or tinted gloss treatment can help to refresh your color and add shine to your hair.
Dealing with Common Problems
Even with careful planning and execution, you might encounter some common problems when dyeing bleached hair back to black.
Green or Blue Undertones: If you notice green or blue undertones in your hair, you can try using a color-correcting shampoo or conditioner. Red-toned shampoos or conditioners can help to neutralize the green or blue.
Uneven Color: If your hair is unevenly colored, you can try applying a second coat of dye to the lighter areas. Be sure to section your hair carefully and apply the dye evenly.
Dryness and Damage: If your hair is dry and damaged after dyeing, focus on deep conditioning and using moisturizing products. Avoid heat styling as much as possible.
Color Fading: All hair dye fades over time, but you can slow down the fading process by following the maintenance tips outlined above.
Professional Help: When to Consult a Stylist
While dyeing bleached hair back to black is possible at home, there are situations where seeking professional help is recommended.
- If your hair is severely damaged or brittle.
- If you’re unsure about choosing the right products or techniques.
- If you’re experiencing significant color banding or unevenness.
- If you have a history of allergic reactions to hair dye.
- If you simply want the peace of mind that comes with having a professional handle the process.
A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best products and techniques for your hair type, and ensure that you achieve a beautiful, even, and long-lasting black hair color. They can also provide personalized advice on how to maintain your hair’s health and color. Investing in a professional color service might be the best option for those with severely damaged hair or those who are new to hair dyeing. This can help prevent further damage and ensure a satisfactory result. The initial cost may be higher, but it could save you money in the long run by avoiding costly corrections.
Why is dyeing bleached hair back to black challenging?
Dyeing bleached hair back to black can be tricky because the bleaching process strips the hair of its natural pigments, leaving it porous and damaged. This increased porosity means the hair readily absorbs color, but also struggles to retain it, leading to uneven color distribution, fading, and the potential for the black dye to turn greenish or blueish over time due to underlying cool tones in the bleached hair.
Additionally, bleached hair lacks the warm undertones that naturally contribute to a rich, natural-looking black. Without these undertones, the black dye can appear flat, dull, and unnatural. The hair’s compromised structure also makes it more susceptible to damage from the dyeing process, requiring extra care and consideration when selecting products and techniques.
What is “filling” the hair, and why is it important before dyeing bleached hair black?
Filling the hair refers to the process of adding missing warm tones (usually red or orange) back into bleached hair before applying the black dye. This step is crucial because bleached hair lacks the underlying pigments needed for the black dye to adhere properly and achieve a natural, long-lasting result. Without filling, the black dye will simply grab onto the porous hair shaft, leading to an uneven, potentially greenish or blueish-tinged, and ultimately short-lived color.
Filling creates a stable base for the black dye to build upon. It helps to neutralize any remaining cool tones from the bleach, ensures the black dye adheres evenly, and prevents the final color from fading to an undesirable shade. Think of it as priming a canvas before painting; it creates a smoother, more receptive surface for the final color application.
What type of filler should I use for bleached hair before dyeing it black?
For bleached hair, a red-orange or copper-toned demi-permanent hair color is typically the best choice for a filler. Demi-permanent colors deposit tone without lifting the existing color, making them gentler on damaged hair than permanent dyes. These warm tones counteract the cool undertones often present in bleached hair and provide the necessary base for a rich, natural-looking black.
Look for a filler specifically designed for color correction, or a shade that’s one or two levels lighter than your desired black. Avoid permanent colors for this step, as they can further damage already compromised hair. Remember to always perform a strand test before applying the filler to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired warm undertone.
How long should I wait between filling my hair and dyeing it black?
Ideally, you should wait 24 to 48 hours between filling your hair and dyeing it black. This waiting period allows the hair cuticle to close slightly and better retain the filler color, preventing it from being immediately washed out when you apply the black dye. It also gives your hair a chance to recover slightly from the coloring process.
If you’re short on time, a minimum of 12 hours is recommended. During this time, avoid washing your hair. You can apply a deep conditioning treatment if desired, but ensure it’s thoroughly rinsed out before applying the black dye. This waiting period maximizes the effectiveness of the filler and contributes to a more even and long-lasting black color.
What type of black hair dye is best for covering bleached hair?
A demi-permanent or permanent black hair dye is suitable for covering bleached hair, but the choice depends on your desired longevity and hair health. Demi-permanent dye is less damaging as it doesn’t contain ammonia, which makes it ideal for already damaged bleached hair. It deposits color without lifting the hair’s cuticle, resulting in less damage and a more natural-looking black. However, it will fade over time, requiring more frequent touch-ups.
Permanent hair dye provides a longer-lasting, more vibrant black color. However, it contains ammonia and peroxide, which can further damage bleached hair. If you choose permanent dye, opt for a high-quality product with moisturizing ingredients and consider using a lower volume developer to minimize damage. Always perform a strand test to assess the color result and potential damage before applying it to your entire head.
How can I prevent the black dye from fading quickly on bleached hair?
Several strategies can help prevent black dye from fading quickly on bleached hair. Firstly, use color-safe shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for dark hair. These products are designed to gently cleanse the hair without stripping the color. Avoid shampoos containing sulfates, as they are harsh and can accelerate fading.
Secondly, wash your hair less frequently. Excessive washing is a major culprit for color fading. When you do wash, use cool or lukewarm water, as hot water opens the hair cuticle and allows color to escape. Finally, protect your hair from sun exposure by wearing a hat or using a UV protectant spray. The sun’s rays can fade hair color and cause damage.
What should I do if my black hair dye fades to a greenish or blueish tint after dyeing bleached hair?
If your black hair dye fades to a greenish or blueish tint, it indicates a lack of warm undertones in your hair. The best course of action is to reapply a color filler with red or orange tones to counteract the cool undertones. A color-depositing conditioner in a warm brown or reddish-brown shade can also help to neutralize the unwanted tones.
Avoid using ash-toned products, as they will only exacerbate the problem. Focus on adding warmth back into the hair. In severe cases, you may need to consult with a professional colorist who can assess the situation and provide a customized color correction treatment. They can use specialized techniques to neutralize the unwanted tones and restore a natural-looking black.