Bleaching your hair is a transformative process, capable of turning even the darkest locks into the lightest shades of blonde. However, it’s also a process that can cause significant damage if not approached with caution and understanding. One of the most critical factors in minimizing damage is choosing the right developer volume. 20 volume developer is often favored for its gentler lifting power, but this begs the question: How many times can you bleach your hair with 20 volume developer before risking serious hair damage? The answer isn’t as straightforward as a simple number. It depends on a multitude of factors, and we’ll delve into each one.
Understanding Bleach and Developer Dynamics
Before we discuss the “how many times” question, it’s essential to understand what bleach and developer do to your hair. Bleach, typically a combination of a bleaching powder and a hydrogen peroxide developer, works by opening the hair cuticle and allowing the oxidizing agent to penetrate the hair shaft. This process breaks down the natural melanin pigments that give your hair its color.
The developer, measured in volumes, dictates the strength and speed of the lightening process. Higher volumes (30, 40) lift color faster and more dramatically, but they also cause more damage. 20 volume developer is considered a milder option, offering a more gradual lift with less risk of breakage.
The Role of Developer Volume
Developer volume refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer solution. The higher the volume, the higher the concentration, and the more oxygen it releases. This released oxygen is what lifts the color from your hair. 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. This means it releases a moderate amount of oxygen, providing a gentle lift suitable for various hair types and bleaching goals.
Using 20 volume allows for a controlled lightening process. This is crucial for maintaining the integrity of your hair, especially when aiming for subtle changes or performing multiple bleaching sessions.
Factors Influencing Bleaching Frequency
The number of times you can safely bleach your hair with 20 volume developer is not a fixed number. Numerous factors play a significant role in determining how your hair will react to repeated bleaching.
Hair Type and Texture
Fine hair is inherently more susceptible to damage than thick hair. Its cuticle layer is thinner, making it easier for the bleach to penetrate and weaken the hair structure. Similarly, coarse hair, while appearing stronger, can also be more prone to damage if the bleaching process is too aggressive. The density and porosity of your hair also matter. Porous hair absorbs bleach faster, potentially leading to uneven results and increased damage.
Starting Hair Color
Darker hair colors require more bleaching sessions to achieve lighter shades. If you’re starting with black or dark brown hair, it will naturally take more processing to reach a platinum blonde compared to someone with naturally light brown hair. This is because the bleach needs to break down more melanin. Each bleaching session, regardless of the developer volume, causes some degree of damage.
Hair History and Previous Treatments
Has your hair been previously colored, permed, or chemically straightened? If so, it’s already compromised. Applying bleach to already damaged hair significantly increases the risk of breakage and other forms of damage. Even seemingly harmless treatments like heat styling can weaken your hair over time. It’s crucial to factor in your hair’s history before even considering another bleaching session.
Hair Condition and Health
Healthy, well-nourished hair is more resilient to the damaging effects of bleach. Dry, brittle, or damaged hair is already vulnerable and will likely suffer more severely from bleaching. Ensure your hair is in the best possible condition before bleaching by using deep conditioning treatments and avoiding harsh styling practices.
Bleaching Technique and Application
The way bleach is applied can also influence the outcome. Applying bleach unevenly or overlapping previously bleached sections can lead to banding and breakage. Using proper application techniques and seeking professional help can minimize the risk of damage.
Assessing Hair Damage After Bleaching
Before considering another bleaching session, it’s crucial to carefully assess the condition of your hair. Look for signs of damage, which can indicate that your hair needs a break.
Signs of Hair Damage
Common signs of damage after bleaching include:
- Increased dryness and brittleness: Hair feels rough and lacks its natural shine.
- Split ends: The hair shaft splits at the ends, indicating structural damage.
- Breakage: Hair snaps easily when stretched or combed.
- Elasticity loss: Hair loses its ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking.
- Gummy or mushy texture: Hair feels soft and stretchy when wet, indicating extreme damage.
If you notice any of these signs, it’s essential to focus on repairing your hair before attempting another bleaching session.
Performing a Strand Test
A strand test is a simple but effective way to assess how your hair will react to bleach. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (usually at the nape of your neck). Process as you would for a full application and then carefully evaluate the results. The strand test will reveal how quickly your hair lifts color and whether it experiences any significant damage.
Guidelines for Safe Bleaching with 20 Volume
While there’s no magic number, here are some general guidelines to help you bleach your hair safely with 20 volume developer:
- Wait at least 4-6 weeks between bleaching sessions. This allows your hair time to recover and rebuild its strength.
- Prioritize hair health. Use deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and moisturizing shampoos and conditioners regularly.
- Avoid heat styling. Excessive heat can further damage already weakened hair.
- Consider using bond-building treatments. Products like Olaplex or similar alternatives can help repair broken bonds within the hair shaft.
- Consult a professional. A qualified stylist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the safest approach for achieving your desired color.
Ultimately, the number of times you can bleach your hair with 20 volume depends on your individual hair characteristics and how well you care for it between sessions. It’s always better to err on the side of caution and prioritize the health of your hair.
Alternatives to Frequent Bleaching
If you’re concerned about the potential damage from repeated bleaching, consider these alternative strategies:
Low and Slow Method
The “low and slow” method involves using a lower volume developer (like 10 or 20 volume) and accepting that the lightening process will take longer. This gentle approach minimizes damage and allows for more gradual color changes.
Highlighting and Lowlighting
Instead of bleaching your entire head, consider highlights or lowlights. This technique involves lightening only select strands of hair, reducing the overall damage.
Color Remover
If you’re trying to remove artificial hair color, a color remover might be a better option than bleach. Color removers work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair. They are generally less damaging than bleach.
Toning
If your goal is to neutralize unwanted tones (like brassiness), a toner can be a less damaging alternative to bleach. Toners deposit pigment into the hair, correcting the color without significantly lifting the base shade.
Post-Bleach Care and Maintenance
Proper post-bleach care is essential for maintaining the health and appearance of your hair. Here’s a routine you should adhere to:
- Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Sulfates can strip moisture from the hair, exacerbating dryness.
- Deep condition regularly. Apply a deep conditioning mask once or twice a week to replenish moisture and repair damage.
- Use a leave-in conditioner. A leave-in conditioner will help detangle your hair and protect it from environmental stressors.
- Apply hair oil or serum. Hair oils and serums can add shine, reduce frizz, and provide extra protection.
- Protect your hair from heat. Minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when using hot tools.
By following these guidelines and paying close attention to your hair’s condition, you can minimize the damage associated with bleaching and achieve your desired color while maintaining healthy, beautiful locks.
FAQ 1: What is 20 volume developer and what hair types is it best suited for?
20 volume developer is a hydrogen peroxide solution used in hair coloring and bleaching. It lifts the hair’s cuticle to deposit color or lighten the hair. Specifically, 20 volume lifts hair approximately one to two levels, making it suitable for subtle color changes, covering grey hairs, or a gentle bleaching process. It’s weaker than higher volumes like 30 or 40, causing less damage but also less significant lightening.
Because of its gentler nature, 20 volume developer is best suited for individuals with fine, thin, or already light hair. It’s also a good choice for those with sensitive scalps or who are aiming for a subtle lightening effect. Darker hair types might require multiple applications or a stronger developer to achieve significant lightening, but 20 volume can still be used for gradual, less damaging results.
FAQ 2: How many times can I safely bleach my hair with 20 volume developer?
The number of times you can safely bleach your hair with 20 volume developer depends heavily on your hair’s health, type, and previous chemical treatments. Generally, it’s safer than higher volume developers, allowing for potentially more applications without severe damage. However, over-processing is still possible, leading to breakage, dryness, and loss of elasticity.
A good rule of thumb is to wait at least 2-3 weeks between bleaching sessions with 20 volume. Regularly assess your hair’s condition and look for signs of damage like increased dryness, split ends, or a gummy texture when wet. If you notice these signs, delay further bleaching and focus on intensive hair repair treatments.
FAQ 3: What are the signs that I’ve bleached my hair too much with 20 volume?
Over-bleaching, even with a gentle developer like 20 volume, manifests in several visible and tactile signs. One of the most prominent is a change in the hair’s texture, becoming excessively dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. Split ends will become more frequent and travel higher up the hair shaft, causing a frayed appearance.
Another key indicator is a loss of elasticity. Healthy hair should be able to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Over-processed hair, however, will snap easily when stretched. You might also notice a gummy or mushy texture, particularly when the hair is wet, indicating severe protein damage. Color may also not hold well and fade quickly.
FAQ 4: What steps can I take to minimize damage when bleaching with 20 volume?
Preparation is key to minimizing damage when bleaching with 20 volume developer. Start by ensuring your hair is in its healthiest possible state. Deep conditioning treatments, hair masks rich in protein and moisture, and regular trimming can help strengthen the hair before bleaching. Avoid washing your hair for 1-2 days before bleaching to allow natural oils to protect the scalp.
During the bleaching process, closely monitor your hair and don’t leave the bleach on longer than necessary. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Use a bond builder like Olaplex or a similar product to help repair and strengthen the hair’s internal structure during bleaching. After bleaching, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner and continue with deep conditioning treatments.
FAQ 5: How does the hair’s porosity affect how many times I can bleach with 20 volume?
Hair porosity, or the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, significantly impacts how often you can bleach it, even with a low-volume developer. High porosity hair, characterized by raised cuticles, absorbs bleach quickly but also loses moisture rapidly, making it more susceptible to damage. Low porosity hair, with tightly closed cuticles, resists bleach and may require longer processing times, potentially leading to uneven results and increased dryness.
If you have high porosity hair, limit the number of bleaching sessions with 20 volume and focus on moisturizing treatments to replenish lost moisture. For low porosity hair, consider using a pre-bleach treatment to gently open the cuticles and improve bleach penetration while avoiding prolonged exposure. Monitor your hair closely during each session and adjust the processing time accordingly.
FAQ 6: Are there alternatives to bleaching multiple times with 20 volume to achieve a lighter color?
Yes, several alternatives exist to avoid multiple bleaching sessions with 20 volume to achieve a lighter color, especially if you’re aiming for a drastic change. Consider using a higher volume developer (30 or 40) under the guidance of a professional colorist. While these are more damaging, they can achieve significant lightening in fewer sessions, potentially minimizing overall damage if done correctly.
Another option is to opt for a gradual lightening approach using techniques like highlights or balayage. These methods lighten sections of the hair rather than the entire head, reducing the impact on the overall hair health. You can also explore color-lifting products designed to gently remove existing color before applying bleach, which can help achieve a cleaner base for lightening.
FAQ 7: What aftercare is essential after bleaching hair multiple times with 20 volume?
Aftercare is crucial after bleaching hair multiple times with 20 volume to restore moisture, repair damage, and maintain the health and appearance of your hair. Immediately after bleaching, use a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask specifically formulated for damaged or color-treated hair. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid to help rebuild and hydrate the hair.
Establish a consistent haircare routine focused on moisture and protein balance. Use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent further stripping of natural oils. Incorporate leave-in conditioners, hair oils, and heat protectants into your routine to provide ongoing hydration and protection from environmental stressors. Avoid excessive heat styling and opt for air drying whenever possible.