Bleaching your roots can be a delicate balancing act. You want to maintain your bright, beautiful color without damaging your hair. Unfortunately, sometimes things go wrong. Over-processed, brassy, or unevenly bleached roots are common problems, but thankfully, they’re usually fixable. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of fixing bleached roots, preventing future mishaps, and maintaining healthy, vibrant hair.
Understanding Why Your Roots Might Be Problematic
Before we dive into fixing the issue, it’s important to understand why bleached roots can sometimes go awry. Several factors contribute to problems like over-processing, brassiness, and uneven color.
One of the most common culprits is overlap. When applying bleach to the roots, it’s crucial to apply it only to the new growth. Accidentally overlapping the bleach onto previously bleached hair can lead to over-processing and breakage. The previously bleached hair is already more porous and susceptible to damage, making it more prone to damage with further bleaching.
Another common issue is the strength of the developer. Developer, usually hydrogen peroxide, is what activates the bleach. Using too high of a volume developer can speed up the lightening process, but it also significantly increases the risk of damage. Similarly, leaving the bleach on for too long can also lead to over-processing.
Uneven application can also lead to patchy or streaky results. This can happen if the bleach isn’t applied evenly or if some areas are missed altogether. It is important to make sure every hair strand is covered in the mixture for uniform coloring.
Finally, underlying tones play a significant role. Hair naturally contains warm undertones, such as red, orange, and yellow. When bleaching, these undertones are exposed. If the bleach isn’t left on long enough or if the hair is resistant to lightening, these undertones can remain, resulting in brassy roots.
Assessing the Damage and Planning Your Approach
Before you grab your toner or color, take a close look at your roots. What exactly is the problem? Are they overly damaged, brassy, uneven, or a combination of issues? Your approach to fixing your bleached roots will depend on the specific problem you are facing.
Assess the Damage: Carefully examine your hair. Does it feel dry, brittle, or elastic when wet? Does it break easily? If so, you’re likely dealing with over-processed hair that needs immediate attention. In this case, focusing on repairing and strengthening the hair is your top priority.
Identify the Tones: Determine the specific tones present in your roots. Are they yellow, orange, or red? Knowing the undertone will help you choose the correct toner or color to neutralize them.
Evaluate the Application: Check for unevenness in the bleach application. Are there patches of darker or lighter hair? This will affect how you apply your corrective color or toner.
Once you have a clear understanding of the situation, you can formulate a plan of action. This plan should include the specific products you will use, the steps you will take, and a timeline for achieving your desired results.
Fixing Over-Processed Bleached Roots
Over-processed hair is fragile and prone to breakage. The first step is to stop further damage and focus on rebuilding the hair’s structure.
Protein Treatments: Protein treatments help to strengthen the hair by filling in the gaps in the hair shaft. Look for products containing keratin, amino acids, or collagen. Use these treatments sparingly, as overusing them can make the hair brittle. Once or twice a week is usually sufficient.
Moisturizing Masks: Over-processed hair is often dry and dehydrated. Deep conditioning masks help to restore moisture and improve elasticity. Look for masks containing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil. Use these masks regularly, at least once a week.
Bond Builders: Products like Olaplex No. 3, or similar bond-building treatments help to repair broken disulfide bonds in the hair, strengthening it from the inside out. These are incredibly effective for repairing damage from bleaching. Follow the product instructions carefully for best results.
Gentle Cleansing: Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, further drying it out. Choose a shampoo specifically designed for damaged or color-treated hair.
Minimize Heat Styling: Heat styling can exacerbate damage. If possible, air dry your hair. If you must use heat, use the lowest setting and always apply a heat protectant spray.
Trim Damaged Ends: Removing split ends will prevent further breakage and improve the overall appearance of your hair. Even a small trim can make a big difference.
Be Patient: Repairing over-processed hair takes time and consistency. Don’t expect to see results overnight. Stick to your treatment plan, and be patient.
Toning Brassy Bleached Roots
Brassiness is a common issue after bleaching. It occurs when the underlying warm tones in the hair are not fully neutralized. Toning is the process of adding pigment to the hair to counteract these unwanted tones.
Understanding Toner: Toner is a demi-permanent hair color that contains pigment to neutralize unwanted tones. It doesn’t lift the hair’s color; it only deposits color. Toners come in various shades, each designed to counteract specific tones.
- Purple Toner: Neutralizes yellow tones. Ideal for achieving a cool, blonde result.
- Blue Toner: Neutralizes orange tones. Best for brunettes or those with darker blonde hair.
- Green Toner: Neutralizes red tones. Useful for correcting red or auburn hues.
Choosing the Right Toner: Select the toner that corresponds to the undertones in your roots. If your roots are yellow, choose a purple toner. If they’re orange, opt for a blue toner. If they’re red, select a green toner.
Preparing to Tone: Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This will allow you to see how the toner will affect your hair color and prevent any surprises. Wear gloves to protect your hands and apply the toner to clean, dry hair.
Applying Toner: Follow the instructions on the toner package carefully. Apply the toner evenly to your roots, making sure to saturate all of the hair. Avoid overlapping the toner onto previously toned hair, as this can lead to uneven color.
Processing Time: The processing time will vary depending on the toner brand and the desired result. Typically, toner is left on for 10-20 minutes. Check your hair color every few minutes to ensure it doesn’t become too ashy or cool-toned.
Rinsing and Conditioning: Once the toner has processed, rinse it out thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a moisturizing conditioner to replenish moisture.
Maintaining Your Tone: Use a purple shampoo or conditioner once or twice a week to maintain your desired tone and prevent brassiness from returning.
Correcting Uneven Bleached Roots
Uneven bleached roots can be frustrating, but they can be fixed with a little patience and careful application. The goal is to blend the uneven areas seamlessly for a uniform color.
Spot Bleaching: If you have small patches of darker hair, you can carefully spot bleach these areas. Mix a small amount of bleach with a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume). Apply the bleach only to the darker patches, avoiding the surrounding hair. Check frequently to prevent over-processing.
Color Correction: If the unevenness is more widespread, you may need to use a demi-permanent hair color that closely matches your desired root color. This will help to blend the different shades and create a more uniform result. Choose a color that is slightly darker than your lightest roots to even out the appearance.
Root Smudging: Root smudging is a technique used to blend the harsh line between your natural hair color and your bleached roots. This creates a softer, more natural-looking transition. To smudge the roots, use a root smudge product that’s slightly darker than your natural hair color. Apply the product to the roots, blending it downwards into the bleached hair.
Balayage or Highlights: If you’re struggling to achieve a uniform color, consider adding balayage or highlights to your hair. This will help to break up the solid color and create a more blended, natural look.
Professional Help: If you’re unsure about how to correct uneven bleached roots, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess the situation and recommend the best course of action.
Preventing Bleached Root Problems in the Future
Prevention is always better than cure. Taking steps to prevent bleached root problems in the first place can save you time, money, and potential damage to your hair.
Choose the Right Developer: Use the lowest volume developer that will effectively lift your hair. 10 or 20 volume is usually sufficient for root touch-ups. Higher volumes can lead to over-processing and damage.
Apply Bleach Carefully: Apply bleach only to the new growth, avoiding overlapping onto previously bleached hair. Use a precise applicator brush to ensure even coverage. Work in small sections to ensure all the hair is evenly coated.
Monitor the Processing Time: Check your hair color frequently during the bleaching process. Don’t leave the bleach on for longer than necessary. Remove the bleach as soon as you reach your desired level of lightness.
Protect Your Hair: Use a bond-building treatment like Olaplex No. 1 in your bleach mixture to help protect your hair from damage. This will help to minimize breakage and maintain the integrity of your hair.
Moisturize Regularly: Bleaching can dry out your hair. Use deep conditioning masks and leave-in conditioners regularly to keep your hair hydrated and healthy.
Avoid Over-Bleaching: Give your hair a break between bleaching sessions. Over-bleaching can lead to severe damage and breakage. Wait at least 4-6 weeks between touch-ups.
Professional Consultation: If you’re unsure about bleaching your hair at home, consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair type and recommend the best bleaching techniques and products for your hair.
Maintaining Healthy Bleached Hair
Bleached hair requires extra care to keep it healthy, strong, and vibrant. Incorporate these tips into your routine to maintain your bleached hair’s health.
Use a Heat Protectant: Always use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools. This will help to shield your hair from heat damage.
Limit Heat Styling: Reduce the frequency of heat styling. Air dry your hair whenever possible.
Trim Regularly: Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage. This will help to keep your hair looking healthy and vibrant.
Eat a Healthy Diet: A healthy diet is essential for healthy hair growth. Eat plenty of protein, vitamins, and minerals.
Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to keep your hair hydrated from the inside out.
By following these tips, you can fix your bleached roots, prevent future problems, and maintain healthy, beautiful bleached hair.
Why are my roots turning orange after bleaching?
Bleached hair, especially roots, can turn orange due to the underlying pigments in your natural hair. The bleach lifts the dark pigments first, leaving behind warmer tones like red and orange before it can reach a pale blonde. This is more common in people with darker natural hair colors as they have more underlying warm pigments that require a stronger bleach or multiple applications to fully lift.
To combat this, you can use a toner specifically designed to neutralize orange tones. Look for toners with a blue or purple base, as these colors are opposite orange on the color wheel and will effectively cancel it out. You can also consider using a stronger bleach developer or multiple bleach applications, but be very cautious as this can damage your hair.
How soon after bleaching my roots can I tone them?
It’s best to wait at least 24-48 hours after bleaching your roots before toning them. This allows your scalp and hair to recover slightly from the bleaching process, reducing the risk of further irritation or damage. Applying toner immediately after bleaching can be too harsh, especially if your scalp is already sensitive from the bleach.
During this waiting period, focus on nourishing your hair with a moisturizing conditioner or hair mask. This will help to replenish any moisture lost during the bleaching process and prepare your hair for the toner. Always follow the instructions on your chosen toner carefully and perform a strand test before applying it to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result.
What developer volume should I use when bleaching my roots?
Choosing the correct developer volume for bleaching your roots is crucial to achieving the desired lift while minimizing damage. A lower volume developer (10 or 20 volume) is generally recommended for root touch-ups, especially if you’re aiming for a subtle lift or have fine, fragile hair. These lower volumes lift more gently and are less likely to cause breakage.
Higher volume developers (30 or 40 volume) can be used if your hair is resistant to lightening or if you’re aiming for a significant lift in a single application. However, these higher volumes are more damaging and should only be used by experienced individuals or professionals. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and start with a lower volume developer, increasing it if necessary.
How do I prevent banding when bleaching my roots?
Banding, where the roots are a different color than the rest of your hair, can occur if the bleach overlaps onto previously bleached hair. To prevent this, apply the bleach only to the new growth, being careful not to touch the already lightened sections. Use a precise applicator brush and work in small sections to ensure even coverage and avoid overlap.
Another key is to monitor the processing time closely. Roots tend to lift faster than previously bleached hair due to the heat from your scalp. Check the roots frequently and rinse the bleach off as soon as the desired level of lift is achieved. Using a mirror can help you see the back of your head and ensure even application.
How can I fix roots that are lighter than the rest of my hair?
If your roots have lifted too light after bleaching, you’ll need to add some depth and tone to match the rest of your hair. This is usually achieved by using a demi-permanent color or a toner that is slightly darker than your current hair color. Choose a shade that closely matches the rest of your hair to create a seamless blend.
Apply the color or toner only to the overly lightened roots, carefully avoiding overlap onto the rest of your hair. Start by applying it to the darkest areas of the roots first, then blend it outwards. Allow the color or toner to process according to the manufacturer’s instructions, checking frequently to ensure you achieve the desired result.
What can I do to protect my scalp during the bleaching process?
Protecting your scalp during bleaching is essential to prevent irritation and burns. Before applying bleach, avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours, as the natural oils on your scalp provide a protective barrier. You can also apply a thin layer of coconut oil or a scalp protectant specifically designed for bleaching to further shield your skin.
During the bleaching process, monitor your scalp closely for any signs of discomfort, such as burning or itching. If you experience any irritation, rinse the bleach off immediately. After bleaching, use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo and a moisturizing conditioner to soothe and hydrate your scalp. Avoid using heat styling tools for a few days to allow your scalp to recover.
How often can I safely bleach my roots?
The frequency of root bleaching depends on your hair’s health and the rate of your hair growth. As a general rule, it’s best to wait at least 4-6 weeks between bleaching sessions to allow your hair and scalp to recover. Bleaching too frequently can lead to dryness, breakage, and scalp irritation.
If your hair is healthy and growing quickly, you might be able to bleach your roots slightly more often. However, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and prioritize the health of your hair. Consider using techniques like lowlights or root smudging to extend the time between bleaching sessions and minimize damage.