Brassy hair, that unwelcome warm, orange, or yellow tinge that often creeps into blonde or light brown hair, is a common hair coloring woe. It can be incredibly frustrating after investing time and money in achieving your dream shade. The good news is, yes, you can dye over brassy hair! However, the success of your color correction depends on several factors, including the level of brassiness, your current hair color, and the chosen dyeing method. This comprehensive guide will explore everything you need to know about tackling brassiness and achieving the cool, toned hair you desire.
Understanding Brassy Hair: What Causes It?
Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand why brassiness occurs in the first place. Knowing the root cause can help you prevent it from happening again. Brassy tones are primarily the result of underlying warm pigments in your hair being exposed during the lightening process.
The Hair Lightening Process
When you lighten your hair, whether with bleach or a high-lift dye, you’re essentially stripping away its natural pigment. Darker hair contains a greater concentration of red and orange pigments. As these pigments are lifted, they often reveal themselves before the cooler tones can fully develop. This is particularly true if the lightening process isn’t thorough enough or if you’re lifting several levels in one go.
Environmental Factors
Even if your initial color result is perfect, environmental factors can contribute to brassiness over time.
- Sun exposure: The sun’s UV rays can fade your hair color and expose underlying warm tones.
- Hard water: Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium, which can deposit on your hair and create a brassy or orange hue.
- Chlorine: Swimming in chlorinated pools can also lead to brassiness, especially in blonde hair. Chlorine reacts with the hair’s proteins and can cause discoloration.
- Product buildup: Some hair products, especially those containing sulfates, can strip your hair color and contribute to brassiness.
Improper Hair Care
Using the wrong hair care products or neglecting regular maintenance can also lead to brassiness. Shampoos that are not color-safe can strip your hair of its toner and expose the underlying warm tones. Infrequent toning can also allow brassiness to build up over time.
Assessing Your Brassy Hair: Determining the Severity
Before you reach for a dye, take a close look at your hair and assess the level of brassiness. This will help you choose the most effective color correction method. Is it a subtle hint of warmth, or a full-blown orange disaster?
Level of Brassiness
- Slightly brassy: Hair has a subtle yellow or gold tinge.
- Moderately brassy: Hair has noticeable orange or yellow tones.
- Severely brassy: Hair is overwhelmingly orange or reddish-orange.
Your Current Hair Color
Consider your current hair color level and tone. If your hair is already quite light (level 8 or higher), you may only need a toner. If it’s darker (level 7 or lower) or severely brassy, you might need a more pigmented dye.
Hair Condition
Assess the overall health of your hair. Is it dry, damaged, or brittle? Bleach and dye can further damage already compromised hair, so it’s crucial to prioritize its condition before proceeding.
Color Theory: The Key to Neutralizing Brassiness
Understanding basic color theory is essential for effectively neutralizing brassy tones. The color wheel is your best friend here.
Opposites Attract (and Neutralize)
The principle is simple: colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel cancel each other out.
- Orange is neutralized by blue.
- Yellow is neutralized by violet (purple).
- Red is neutralized by green.
Therefore, to combat brassiness, you’ll need to use products containing blue or purple pigments.
Choosing the Right Toner or Dye
- For slightly brassy hair (yellow tones): A purple shampoo or toner may be sufficient. Look for products labeled “violet” or “purple” to neutralize yellow.
- For moderately brassy hair (orange tones): A blue-based toner or a demi-permanent dye with blue undertones is recommended.
- For severely brassy hair (reddish-orange tones): You may need a more pigmented ash-toned dye to counteract the strong red and orange tones. In some cases, a professional color correction is the best option.
Dyeing Over Brassy Hair: Step-by-Step Guide
Now that you understand the causes of brassiness and the principles of color correction, let’s get into the practical steps of dyeing over brassy hair.
Preparation is Key
Before you even open the dye box, proper preparation is crucial.
- Strand test: Always perform a strand test on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how the dye will react and to avoid any unexpected color results.
- Gather your supplies: You’ll need gloves, a mixing bowl, a dye brush, a towel to protect your clothing, clips to section your hair, and your chosen dye or toner.
- Protect your skin: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to your hairline and ears to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
- Don’t wash your hair: Avoid washing your hair for 1-2 days before dyeing. Natural oils will help protect your scalp from irritation.
The Dyeing Process
Follow these steps carefully to achieve the best results:
- Section your hair: Divide your hair into four sections (or more if you have very thick hair) to ensure even application.
- Mix the dye: Follow the instructions on the dye box to mix the developer and color thoroughly.
- Apply the dye: Starting at the roots, apply the dye evenly to each section of your hair, working your way down to the ends.
- Process the dye: Allow the dye to process for the recommended time, checking frequently to monitor the color development. Do not exceed the recommended processing time, as this can damage your hair.
- Rinse thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Condition your hair: Apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and help seal the cuticle.
- Style as usual: Style your hair as usual, and enjoy your newly toned locks!
Choosing the Right Dye or Toner
The success of your color correction hinges on choosing the right product.
- Toner: Toners are generally used to neutralize unwanted tones in pre-lightened hair. They deposit color but don’t lift the existing color.
- Demi-permanent dye: Demi-permanent dyes deposit color and add shine, but they don’t lift the existing color. They’re a good option for covering brassiness without causing further damage.
- Permanent dye: Permanent dyes lift the existing color and deposit new color. Use permanent dyes with caution, especially on previously lightened hair, as they can cause damage.
Ash Tones vs. Neutral Tones
When choosing a dye, consider whether you want to use an ash-toned or neutral-toned dye.
- Ash tones: Ash-toned dyes contain blue, green, or violet pigments to counteract warmth. They’re ideal for neutralizing brassiness and creating a cool, icy blonde or brown.
- Neutral tones: Neutral-toned dyes provide a balanced color without adding excessive warmth or coolness. They’re a good option if you want to cover brassiness without drastically changing your hair color.
Alternative Solutions for Banishing Brassiness
While dyeing over brassy hair is a common solution, there are other options to consider, especially if you want to minimize damage or address milder cases of brassiness.
Purple Shampoo and Conditioner
Purple shampoo and conditioner are staples in the hair care routine of many blondes and light brunettes. These products contain violet pigments that help neutralize yellow tones and keep brassiness at bay. They work best for maintaining cool tones and preventing brassiness from developing, rather than correcting severe brassiness.
- How to use purple shampoo: Use purple shampoo 1-2 times per week, alternating with your regular shampoo. Apply to wet hair, lather, and leave on for 3-5 minutes (or as directed on the product label). Rinse thoroughly and follow with purple conditioner. Do not overuse purple shampoo, as it can cause a purple tint, especially on very light or porous hair.
Blue Shampoo and Conditioner
Blue shampoo and conditioner are designed to neutralize orange tones in darker blonde or light brown hair. They work similarly to purple shampoo but contain blue pigments instead of violet.
Hair Glosses and Glazes
Hair glosses and glazes are semi-permanent treatments that add shine and tone to your hair. They can help neutralize brassiness and enhance your existing color without causing significant damage. Glosses typically last for 4-6 weeks, while glazes last for 1-2 weeks.
DIY Hair Masks
Homemade hair masks can also help combat brassiness, although their effects may be more subtle.
- Apple cider vinegar rinse: Mix 1 part apple cider vinegar with 3 parts water. After shampooing, pour the mixture over your hair and let it sit for 1-2 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Apple cider vinegar can help remove mineral buildup and brighten your hair.
- Lemon juice mask: Mix equal parts lemon juice and water. Apply to your hair and let it sit in the sun for 15-30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Lemon juice can help lighten your hair and reduce brassiness, but use it with caution, as it can be drying.
Preventing Brassiness: Long-Term Hair Care Tips
Prevention is always better than cure. By implementing these hair care tips, you can minimize the risk of brassiness and maintain your desired hair color for longer.
Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner
Always use shampoo and conditioner that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and won’t strip your hair of its color. Avoid shampoos that contain sulfates, as they can be harsh and drying.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time in the sun. This will help prevent your hair color from fading and reduce the risk of brassiness.
Filter Your Shower Water
Install a shower filter to remove minerals and chlorine from your water. This will help prevent mineral buildup and discoloration.
Avoid Over-Washing Your Hair
Washing your hair too frequently can strip it of its natural oils and cause your color to fade faster. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times per week.
Regular Toning
Incorporate toning into your regular hair care routine. Use a toner every few weeks to refresh your color and neutralize any developing brassiness.
Professional Color Correction
If you’re struggling to correct brassiness on your own or if your hair is severely damaged, it’s best to consult a professional colorist. A skilled colorist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the most appropriate color correction treatment.
When to Seek Professional Help
While DIY color correction can be effective, there are situations where it’s best to leave it to the professionals.
- Severe brassiness: If your hair is severely brassy or if you’ve tried multiple DIY solutions without success, a professional colorist can provide a more effective and targeted treatment.
- Damaged hair: If your hair is dry, brittle, or damaged, attempting to dye it yourself can further exacerbate the problem. A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend a gentle color correction method.
- Uneven color: If your hair has multiple shades or uneven color, a professional colorist can create a more balanced and harmonious result.
- Complex color changes: If you’re trying to make a significant color change (e.g., going from dark brown to platinum blonde), it’s best to consult a professional colorist to avoid damaging your hair and achieving unpredictable results.
Dyeing over brassy hair is definitely possible, but it requires careful assessment, a good understanding of color theory, and the right products. By following the steps outlined in this guide and prioritizing the health of your hair, you can successfully neutralize brassiness and achieve the cool, toned hair you’ve always wanted. Remember, patience and consistency are key. With the right approach, you can say goodbye to brassy tones and hello to beautiful, vibrant hair!
FAQ 1: What exactly is “brassy” hair, and why does it happen?
Brassy hair refers to unwanted warm tones, typically orange, red, or yellow, that appear in hair after coloring or bleaching. It’s more noticeable in lighter hair shades like blonde or light brown. Brassy tones often diminish the desired cool or neutral look of the hair color.
Brassy hair occurs due to the underlying pigments in your natural hair. When you lighten your hair, the melanin (pigment) is lifted, and warm undertones are revealed. These undertones can become more prominent over time due to factors like sun exposure, hard water, and the fading of cool-toned dyes, exposing the underlying warmth.
FAQ 2: Can I dye over brassy hair with just any hair dye?
No, you can’t simply use any hair dye and expect to completely neutralize brassy tones. Using the wrong type of dye can exacerbate the problem, leading to an uneven or muddied color. You need to select a dye that contains the correct complementary pigments to counteract the brassiness.
Specifically, look for dyes labeled as “ash,” “cool,” or “smoky,” which contain blue or violet pigments. These pigments are designed to neutralize orange and yellow tones, effectively canceling out the brassiness. Using a dye that’s too warm or similar to the existing brassy tones will only make the problem worse.
FAQ 3: What is toner, and how does it help with brassy hair?
Toner is a product specifically designed to neutralize unwanted brassy tones in hair. It contains pigments that counteract the warmth, restoring a more balanced and cool-toned color. Unlike regular hair dye, toner doesn’t lift or lighten the hair significantly.
Toners work by depositing color onto the hair shaft to cancel out the unwanted brassy hues. Blue-based toners neutralize orange tones, while violet-based toners neutralize yellow tones. The choice of toner depends on the specific type of brassiness you are trying to correct. Toners are usually applied after bleaching or coloring and are a crucial step in achieving the desired hair color.
FAQ 4: What level of commitment does toning require? Will I have to do it regularly?
The level of commitment required for toning depends on your hair type, lifestyle, and the degree of brassiness. Generally, toning is a semi-permanent solution, meaning the effects will fade over time. You’ll likely need to re-tone your hair every few weeks to maintain the desired cool or neutral tone.
Factors like how often you wash your hair, the products you use, and exposure to the sun can all influence how quickly the toner fades. Using color-safe shampoo and conditioner, avoiding excessive heat styling, and protecting your hair from the sun can help prolong the effects of the toner and reduce the frequency of re-toning. Some people find they only need to tone every 6-8 weeks, while others may need to do it more frequently, like every 2-4 weeks.
FAQ 5: Can I use purple shampoo to fix brassy hair, or is it just for maintenance?
Purple shampoo is a valuable tool for both correcting and maintaining brassy hair, but it has its limitations. While it can neutralize mild brassiness, it might not be strong enough to completely correct severe orange or red tones. Think of it more as a preventative measure and a gentle corrector.
For significant brassiness, a toner is often necessary to provide a more potent dose of pigment. Once you’ve addressed the major brassiness with a toner or dye, purple shampoo can be used to maintain the color and prevent brassiness from returning quickly. Regular use of purple shampoo can help keep your cool tones fresh and vibrant between toning sessions.
FAQ 6: Are there any risks or potential damage associated with dyeing or toning over brassy hair?
Yes, like any chemical hair treatment, dyeing or toning over brassy hair carries potential risks. Over-processing the hair can lead to dryness, breakage, and damage, especially if your hair is already weakened from previous coloring or bleaching. It’s crucial to assess the health of your hair before proceeding.
Choosing the wrong dye or toner can also result in unwanted color results, such as overly ashy or muddy tones. Always perform a strand test before applying the product to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired color and avoid unexpected reactions. Overlapping previously colored hair can also lead to uneven color distribution and damage.
FAQ 7: When should I consult a professional stylist instead of trying to fix brassy hair myself?
If you’re dealing with significant brassiness, have heavily processed hair, or are unsure about the best approach, consulting a professional stylist is highly recommended. Attempting to correct severe brassiness yourself could lead to further damage or unsatisfactory results, potentially costing you more in the long run to fix.
A stylist can accurately assess the level of brassiness, the condition of your hair, and recommend the most suitable products and techniques to achieve your desired color without compromising the health of your hair. They can also provide personalized advice on maintenance and prevent future brassiness, saving you time, money, and potential frustration.